Train Don’t Test
“Train, don’t test” is something I am always reminding my clients. When Pup has learned a new trick, it is really tempting to see if he can do it for all your friends and in lots of new places. Or maybe to see if he can do a variation of the trick that might be more impressive. We want to “test” it out just to see if he can. The problem with this is that you are setting him up to fail. And no one is going to feel good if he does. Not you, and not Pup.
When you train with rewards instead of punishment, your dog only learns when he is successful. If you don’t set him up to succeed, he will never learn, or worse, he will learn that the cue you are using doesn’t mean very much.
When you teach your dog something new, it is important to “proof” the behavior in a lot of different environments and with a lot a variations. Proofing ensures that your dog will be successful performing the new behavior anywhere you go and among many different distractions.
In general, there are four factors to consider when proofing a new behavior. Distance, Duration, Distraction and Different Location.
Duration: Length of time that Pup maintains the behavior
Distance: Distance from handler
Distraction: Number and intensity of distractions present
Different Locations: Place where Pup performs the behavior
- Each should be increased on its own. When you raise the criteria of one element, the others should be brought back to the easiest degree possible.
- Always work Duration before Distance. You cannot add distance if Pup cannot perform a behavior while you are nearby.
- Add Distractions very slowly and be sure to go back to very short Duration and Distance when you start.
- Once you have added the first three D’s in one location, go back and start all over in a new location.
Here is an example of a proofing plan for the “Stay” cue.
- Teach the cue first in a very low distraction environment only asking for a second or two of a hold before rewarding and releasing Pup.
- Duration: Add duration only to begin. Work up to a 30 second stay by adding just a few seconds at a time and remaining in front of your dog. An example progression could be: 1 second, 2 seconds, 1 second, 4 seconds, 3 seconds, 2 seconds, 5 seconds, etc.
- Distance: Start adding some movement away from your dog keeping in mind you have to go back to the beginning on duration. So distance at first should only take a second or two. An example progression could be: half step back, half step right, full step back, half step right, full step left, half step back, 2 steps back, turn step left, etc.
- Distractions: Once you can walk around your dog and go 15 steps in either direction away from your dog, you can start over adding distractions. You’ll go all the way back to step 1, but this time doing it with the distraction present. Every time you change the distraction, go back to step one. Start with easy distractions first and slowly work up the difficulty. An example progression could be: another person present, on leash with a calm dog present at a distance and also on a leash, familiar people walking slowly, familiar people walking quickly, etc.
- Different Location: Once your dog can handle a number of distractions in single location, you can go back and the steps again in a new location.
Proofing may seem tedious to you, but your dog will love it. This is quality time building your relationship with your dog. All the treats! All the new places! When you train using rewards and treats, each training session is a bonding experience between you and your Pup.
Happy training!
